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Analysis of, and reaction to, Dutch trendwatcher Lidewij Edelkoort's remark that fashion is dead and fashion schools are to blame.
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De titel van het boek Van meme tot mainstream: internetkunst, esthetiek en offline luxe in een postdigitale wereld, verwijst naar een van de meest karakteristieke eigenschappen van onze tijd: de kracht van het internet die ervoor zorgt dat iets in een fractie van een seconde de wereld over kan gaan en alle aandacht op zich weet te vestigen, om vervolgens net zo snel weer te verdwijnen in het digitale universum. Deze viraliteit is een eigenschap die onze huidige westerse samenleving, kunst en cultuur sterk beïnvloedt. Van internetkunst post-internet, het onderzoeksproject The New Aesthetic, tot de laatste ‘offline als luxe’-trend. In Van meme tot mainstreamneemt Nadine Roestenburg je mee in haar gedachten, verbazing, fascinaties en ontdekkingen die voortkomen uit persoonlijke ervaringen, observaties en onderzoek. Volgens haar kunnen kunstenaars die zich bezighouden met (de impact van) het internet en digitale technologie ons nieuwe inzichten geven. De kunstenaars die worden besproken in Van meme tot mainstreamzoeken de grenzen op van de technologie, proberen de technologie te doorgronden of af te breken, om haar vervolgens op een andere manier weer in elkaar te zetten. Zij reflecteren op fenomenen waar we bewust, of onbewust, allemaal mee te maken hebben. Zij kunnen ons anders naar de wereld laten kijken. Nu de digitale revolutie voorbij is, is het tijd om terug te kijken op de veranderingen van de afgelopen jaren. En ruimte te creëren voor reflectie, waarin we kunnen beoordelen hoe we met onze technologieën om willen gaan en bedenken hoe we willen dat de technologieën er in de toekomst uit zullen zien.
The survey on ‘Doing Business in Germany’ (2010), conducted by the CBRD research project (Cross-Media, Brand, Reputation & Design Management), helped identify key principles for doing business internationally. As the study shows, self-analysis by the Dutch agency or individual designer is at least as important for a successful enterprise as finding the right opportunities on the German or any other international market. For the designer concerned, this requires insight into one’s own ambitions, motives, competencies, attitude and work style.
How and where can Dutch design entrepreneurs find work in Germany? This was the question DutchDFA put to the research team at Inholland University of Applied Sciences in February 2010. But the researchers took a different angle, and generated unexpected data, revealing patterns, and valuable new insights into practicing design and architecture abroad.
This research aims to obtain more insight in the perception of fabric drape and how fabric drape can be cat-egorized With the current 3D virtual technologies to simulate garments the fashion and clothing industry can speed up work processes, improve accuracy and reduce material consumption in fit, design and sales. Although the interest in 3D technology is increasing, the implementation on a large scale emerges only slowly. At the threshold between physical and virtual fitting the fashion industry faces new challenges and demands re-quiring responses out of rule. The measurement of fabric drape started in the first half of the previous cen-tury, after the introduction of 3D garment simulation fabric drape gained interest from more researchers to obtain information for the virtual drape. Intensive research has been undertaken to define ‘fabric hand’, however, research is limited for the definition of fabric drape. Better understanding of how fabrics drape and how they can be selected based on their drape might contribute to the understanding of the virtually as-sessed material and accelerate the selection process of virtually, as well as digitally presented fabrics. For this research the drape coefficient of 13 fabrics, selected based on their drape, was measured with the Cusick drape tester. Images and videos of the fabrics draped on pedestals were presented to an expert tex-tile panel who were asked to define the fabric drape. From these definitions categories, as well as identifying key-words, were derived. During a group session the expert panel evaluated the drape categories and identi-fying key-words. In the next phase an expert user panel, familiar with the assessment of fabrics in a virtual environment, assessed the appropriateness of the categories and identifying key-words which were present-ed along with the fabric drape images and videos. Moreover, both panels judged the stiffness and amount of drape, next to that they indicated similar draping fabrics. The relation between the subjective assessment of drape and the drape coefficient was investigated. The agreement of the user panel with the drape categories defined and evaluated by the textile panel was high. Further, the agreement of the majority of the user panel with the identifying key-words was above 78%. A strong relation was found between the measured drape coefficient and the subjectively assessed stiffness and amount of drape. Additionally, the analysis of the fabrics combined by the panels based on drape simi-larity, as well as the analysis of the drape coefficients, confirms with previous research, that significantly dif-ferent fabrics can have a similar drape. Fabrics can be divided in drape categories based on the way they drape, and the identifying key-words are useful to distinguish between significantly different fabrics with similar fabric drape. Moreover, the cate-gories are related to the drape coefficient.
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